Rain! 60s! To Monet’s House and Gardens. Despite the weather, what a wonderfully rich experience! This is not the typical manicured estate garden but instead a lovingly cared for, lush array of dahlias, roses, snapdragons, begonias and the famous water lilies floating in their ponds with Monet’s boat nearby. One could feel his presence! We had been warned about the tour bus crowds, but were pleasantly surprised by their absence. We enjoyed wandering through his house not because it was architecturally pleasing but because it was a mini-museum of his paintings and those of his friends – Renoir, Cezanne, Caillebot, Morisot.
Leaving Giverny, we headed for Rouen. Our first stop was the Church of Jeanne D’Arc on the site of her burning (with a cross on the very spot). A modern work, it reminds one of ships and fish with roofing tiles like scales and several windows in the shape of Icthus and a ceiling like an inverted wooden hull. The shape of the exterior roof evokes the flames of the stake. But the severity of the sleek lines of the interior was softened by beautiful Renaissance stained glass windows salvaged from St. Vincent’s Church. Stations of the Cross were barely visible but I tracked them down—small crosses and candles on 14 consecutive pillars. We searched and found the baptismal font in its own special outpost off the chapel of repose. A shaft of light struck the font from the large round skylight soaring 40’ above. In the corner opposite the altar was an impressive statue of St. Joan next to a tree of votive candles, where DW lit one for the intentions of her brother Vincent. [A tradition she has established in our travels.]. Outside the church is another Statue of St. Joan.
The church is on the Place du Vieux Marché (the old market) with typical Norman half-timbered buildings, and the Gros Horlage. We moved along to the famous Cathédrale Notre-Dame [it began to seem that they are all called that in France], dating back to the 12th Century. Destroyed several times by invasions and wars, it is a living structure perpetually evolving. It has the highest spires of any cathedral in France. And finally we admired the bowed facade of St. Maclou Church.
We split a salad for a very late lunch at a restaurant that despite its name (La Creperie) did not offer crepes after 4:30. I had some strange cider [made a point to try regional specialties throughout France, with some hits and some misses].
We saw a bunch of Viking tour groups going through Rouen. They were all going in the same direction, on each other’s heels. Not good spacing to avoid congestion. [AMA did a much better job of spacing so we rarely saw the other tour groups during our cruise.]
We drove on to Honfleur to Hôtel l’Ecrin and dined at Bistro des Artistes, run by two women (and their adorable boxer who keeps the floor clean). What a meal! We shared paté on French bread with salad and then each had our own Veal Normande with Calvados cream. I enjoyed Gaillac red wine, a local appellation. Even though it was early in our trip, we knew that this was the best meal we would have! I’m a real foodie, who has twice been disappointed at Blue Hill at Stone Barn which IMHO doesn’t live up to its reputation – or prices. This restaurant is tops!
Jazzbeaux France Trip 2015 